Food Friday | On a monsoon trail through India’s soups

There’s nothing more soothing for the soul on a rainy day than a bowl of soup. Had steaming hot, this is the culinary goodness that has your grandma’s love in it, made quickly and simply, to bring about happiness, warmth and calm. More than you might imagine, the Indian foodscape offers soups and shorbas from different regions, with cooking styles that are as flavoursome as it gets! On this rainy weekend, step into the world of heart-warming desi varieties...

How soup gained prominence in the desi kitchen

When it comes to soup, every region has its own delight, from the Gujarati osaman to tangy-peppery rassam from the south and rich, intense paya shorba, a hot fave in the north. Chef Pankaj Bhadouria traces its interesting trail. She says, “It’s fascinating how soups, which were never a part of the Indian cuisine have become so popular now all across the country, leading with the Kolkata born, Indo-Chinese soups. But there are some soups that date back a little longer in our cuisine, for instance rassam, which is believed to have originated in the 16th century. Known as saaru in Karnataka and chaaru in Andhra Pradesh, this is spicy infusion that hits the right notes on a cold, wet day. Another southern variety that claims international popularity, is the Mulligatawny soup that dates back to the days of the British Raj. It is made with peppers, hence the name, mulligatawny (pepper water). Shorba is another soup that has travelled to India from the Middle East and comes from the Arabic word shurbah. The delicious broth called Kashmiri yakhni, is a version of this. And the soup that’s becoming a favourite on menus all over is the Himalayan thukpa; a generous load of vegetables, hand-pulled noodles, meats and yak fat in the original recipe, making for a filling and warming bite.”

People also have the fondest memories of soup. Brand consultant Kevin Baretto recalls how caldo verde was a must-have in the rains at their home in Cancona, Goa. He says, “This creamy soup with spinach and potatoes and sometimes, Goan sausages, was always special and we would have it local Goan poee or pao.” Another fave that has its origins in Indo-Portuguese cuisine is canja de Goa. Chef Xav Norr, owner of Route 66 at Panaji, shares, “This is a mildly spiced broth, made with chicken, Goan choriz, garlic, onion and rice water and ideal in the monsoons to keep the body warm and nourished, while keeping the flu away.”

Foodies share their soup power-up secrets

In the West, soup found its way into blended liquid lunches taken to offices, and back home, too, it has gone from being a last-minute throw-together option to a more valuable indulgence. Food blogger Moumita S finds two desi nutritious soups to be perfect for Indian monsoons. She says, “These have simple ingredients and strengthen the immune system. I make hara bhara palak-pudina soup, which packs so many benefits. It is a great source of vitamins, moisturises the skin and keeps hair loss at bay. I read how it helps manage diabetes, is good for digestion and lowers blood pressure. It is also said to be anti-inflammatory and aids bone health. My other go-to soup is imli-nariyal soup, which is a rich source of magnesium, calcium and healthy fats. It's said to prevent peptic ulcers, cure constipation and help you lose weight.”

Anurima Athalye, chef and owner of the food catering venture Aromas Kitchen, has her power-up weapon, it’s carrot soup! She says, “In very household, the fridge has one go-to vegetable that’s handy and in my kitchen that vegetable is carrot. To keep carbs like potatoes away, I use it in soups for colour and consistency and kaddku-gajar ka shorba and moong-gajar ka shorba have turned into family faves. It’s so satisfying to sit by the window watching the rain as I have this.”

Homemaker Stuti Agarwal has a must-have rotational list of soups for the week and swears by her three-ingredient lauki soup to add nutrition and comfort to the day. And baker Kairvi Mehta says adding a grain or two to soup makes all the difference. She says, “We make a bunch of soups, including vegan ones, but what stands out is bajra ni ghes, a preparation with whole bajra, spices and kharek (dried dates). This is a traditional recipe from my native place, Palanpur, and is a powerhouse of energy.”

Most diet inquiries are for soups, say nutritionists

If you’re looking to eat smartly, whip up a soup, as it a complete dieter’s delight! Celebrity nutritionist Shweta Shah and founder of Eatfit24/7, affirms and says, “Depending on the ingredients in it, many soups can be a meal-in-one, especially in the evening meal. In fact, the most diet inquiries are centred around soups. They get ready quickly, are light on the stomach and won't leave you hungry. The fibre content and the vegetables in a soup makes it filling and wholesome. Our desi soups are the best example here, they’re prepared from lentils and vegetables, without the addition of added preservatives or taste makers, vinegars or any other packaged ingredient. Make anything from a basic tomato soup to combinations like bottle gourd-paneer, moong-paneer, broccoli-mushroom, chana-palak, clear cabbage or drumstick soup.”

Preeti Singh, nutrition and diet expert at Toneop – health and nutrition app, shares ingredients that you can add to your soups to make them a complete meal. “I’d go with oats as they are a perfect way to add complex carbs to your diet. Oats also act as a thickening agent. Add protein in the form of paneer, tofu, sprouts or chickpea/rajma. Herbs and spices like ginger, garlic, cloves, pepper, cinnamon, lemon, etc. turn regular soup into an immunity-boosting variant. And top the bowl with seeds like flaxseeds, pumpkin seeds, watermelon seeds, etc. this can be a perfect way to include good fats that help to manage cholesterol levels.”

Yes, it's also hot on party menus

The next time you throw a party, take a cue from culinarist Smita Deo, who gives a little twist to soup at her gatherings at home. She reveals, “For me, as a child, I always thought soups were served when one was unwell, where a warm chicken broth or a light vegetable clear soup was had when one had a nasty cold or a fever. It’s only in recent times we have turned to relishing a warm soup for dinner rather than having a heavy meal at night. At my home, a variety of soups are made to feel satiated and to comfort the soul and get a good night sleep as well. Even when I host a sit-down dinner, I try and include a soup in the meal as many of us have become health conscious. I make tamatar ka soup, a Maharashtrian-style preparation, basically like a saar, ananasche (pineapple) sambhare and my favourite, the beetroot soup, where I add a little chaas to it with seasoning and a zeera tadka. My friends have all love the idea of having a soup at the party. You can get creative with the garnish and serve it with a variety of cheese, croutons, herbed crackers and so much more.”

With the weather playing host, how about preparing a hot bowl of soup, this weekend?

Ismat Tahseen is a Mumbai-based journalist who writes on food, trends, culture and lifestyle for over a decade now.

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