India vs Pakistan: Recollections of an Indian in Pakistan during a high-intensity match

An Indian’s trip to Pakistan is filled with trepidation. A natural feeling, one assumes, as being an Indian in Pakistan, or vice-versa, isn’t something that sits comfortably most of the time, at least till the time you get there.

My sentiments were the same when 1996 saw me going there to cover the ICC World Cup. With little or no idea of what lay in store, off we went to Lahore in February of that year to be part of what was then called the Wills World Cup, following teams like hosts Pakistan, South Africa, the West Indies and the rest.

As things culminated, this correspondent and a few others were in Pakistan on 9 March, 1996, when the now-famous quarter-final between the two nations was played in Bangalore (now Bengaluru). It was quite an experience being on that side of the border, on such a delicate day.

It was also a World Cup when political tumult had resulted in the boycott of matches in Sri Lanka by Australia and the West Indies after an incident of terrorism in Colombo, so there were always undercurrents related to the tournament. So, every match that the Asian nations played against the Australians and the rest were a topic of heat and debate.

But none of that even came close to the India-Pakistan contest.

We were in Faisalabad that day, as the other quarter-final was being played at the Iqbal Stadium between eventual title winners Sri Lanka and England. For the day match, we trooped to the stadium in the morning, but the buzz right from then in the press box and the media centre was about the contest  scheduled for the afternoon in Bengaluru.

The TV sets in the media area almost in unison shifted to Bengaluru before a few were re-focussed on the Sri Lanka-England game, almost by force.

We were working in automation, with eyes and minds in India while trying to cover a match in Pakistan. As the ended, with a win for Sri Lanka, we quickly wrapped up our work even as India began a late charge through Ajay Jadeja (45 off 25 deliveries) to add to opener Navjot Singh Sidhu’s 93 and India finished at 287/8 in 50 overs.

But we had to leave, since there was a flight to catch to Karachi for the quarter-final between South Africa and the West Indies (11 March). Off we went to the D Area in Faisalabad, where we were staying in Hotel D’s (predictably).

The lobby was full of people sitting focussed on the TV set there, as Pakistan had begun their response. The mood was happy as left-handers Aamer Sohail and Saeed Anwar went after the Indian bowling. As we were completing the check-out process, Anwar was dismissed.

“Oi out!” was the response from a colleague from a daily in Mumbai, rather loudly.

Almost in unison, all the heads in the lobby turned towards us, for what seemed like an interminable moment. We froze for a second, but then picked up our bags and left, carefully avoiding any eye contact.

By the time we had reached Faisalabad airport, India had taken ascendancy in the match and the tempers were rising. We told our Mumbai colleague to keep his enthusiasm under control as we waded through assorted groups glued to various TV sets in the terminal and checked in for our flight.

By the time we landed in Karachi a couple of hours later, it was all over. But the taxi driver there had his own two bits to add. “Apne ladke ladey. Yeh Punjab waalon ne hara diya match.” (Our boys fought. The Punjab guys cost us the match). We assume he was referring to Javed Miandad and Rashid Latif, who were involved in 40-odd runs sixth wicket stand.

The next morning, Karachi was alive with the post-mortem. There was a lot of anger as to how and why Wasim Akram (who was injured) did not play the match and conspiracy theories were rife. So much so that the Pakistan team members, instead of going to Lahore, landed in Karachi in ones and twos and also held a press conference there to clear the air about Akram’s injury.

Nevertheless, we completed the match in Karachi, keeping our joy in strict check, and returned to Lahore to prepare for the final, with a lot of people anticipating India would be travelling to Pakistan for the title round. Even a chartered flight had been booked for the sides to reach Lahore.

But India had a disastrous against Sri Lanka and that was it for them, on 13 March. On 14 March morning, there was a huge procession outside our hotel in the Liberty area of Lahore, close to the Gaddafi Stadium, celebrating India’s loss.

As reporters, we too quietly walked with the procession for a while before discretion overtook valour and we returned to the hotel. But the day’s story was done.

Pakistan was a happier place immediately. But to be fair, it was largely a happy place for us throughout the 40-odd days we spent there, culminating in Sri Lanka winning the trophy.

It was quite an experience, being in the ‘away’ camp during an India-Pakistan match. While we were delirious with joy, we couldn’t do the song and dance. At the same time, it was an eye-opener on what cricket means to both nations, and how lives revolve around those few hours, when all other troubles are forgotten.

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