Top Notch | Tarang Arora: 'All western jewellery looks the same; Indian jewellery has 8-9 craftsmen working in tandem'

IN 1978, two buddies from History class got together and decided to start a business together. They started a handicrafts store, and travelled the length and breadth of India, discovering our amazing nation rich with tradition and crafts. They began to realise how important ornaments were to every Indian, across the country’s myriad cultures. Inspired by the local techniques, and telling indigenous stories, Amrapali was born.

The two founder friends were Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera. Their jewellery brand Amrapali is now 45 years old. The next generation, especially Rajiv’s son Tarang Arora, CEO and Creative Director of Amrapali, and Tarang’s wife Akanksha, are taking the label forward with newer sub-brands as well as moving in step with innovative retail efforts. Alongside Amrapali’s fine jewellery, the next generation’s work with Tribe by Amrapali (of which Akanksha is CEO), and Legend, are noteworthy.

“Joining the trade was pre-decided for me,” Tarang, 40, says. “I was given a half-hearted option that I could do what I wanted to do, but there was always the expectation that I would join the business and take the brand forward,” he smiles. “My father and uncle began as students who had started a small business in those days. They would always say when their families would grow, their business would too.” Everything was related to the trade, Tarang remembers. “If there was a trade fair in Switzerland, we’d attend the trade fair and stay a little more to see the country. All our travels were like that. There was constant talk and shared knowledge about jewellery and craft.”

The senior Arora and Ajmera realised that other than real estate, jewellery was the only thing Indians would save up for. It was valuable, but it was also so emotional for the people of India. They passed it through generations, and the pieces were filled with stories, histories and were amazing repositories of design and craft.

“Amrapali stays true to the Indian ethos. We are inspired by Indian tribal jewellery. We ensure most of our jewellery is hand-crafted, and that it has a soul,” Tarang explains. “I studied in London where everything looked the same– whether it was Harry Winston, Cartier or Graff, it was all about an emerald at the centre and diamonds around it. Whereas Indian jewellery has 8-9 craftsmen working in tandem on one perfect product,” he avers. Today, Amrapali employs 1400 craftsmen directly, and several hundreds from the unorganised centre who work from home. “Giving people work is important. Listening to their ideas is equally important,” Tarang adds.

Akanksha says she was barely an Amrapali shopper when she married Tarang at a too-young 21. But by 26, she had already launched her “baby”, Tribe by Amrapali. “Tribe is an homage to India’s indigenous jewellery,” she says. It’s very well-priced, and aimed at a younger consumer. Tribe began as an online brand, but has grown so organically that it has its own stores across India, including at airports. It is now a decade old. The family also started Legend five years back. “Our NY team wanted a separate brand. So our design team would design in the USA, we would make it with fine Indian craftsmanship in India, and sell it in the USA,” Tarang adds.

Amrapali – named after the renowned beauty and muse of ancient India (she is also said to have stayed at Buddha’s mangrove) — is one of India’s most famous brands. They were the first to popularise the use of silver jewellery as everyday wear. Its bohemian silver with stones was popular with tourists who flocked to India. “Some of those clients became friends,” Tarang says. “One couple drove down in a caravan from Switzerland, they would buy Indian silver and sell it to flea markets all over the world. They even adopted a stray dog and took him back to Zurich.” Imagine Coachella baubles, and that possibly has its roots in Amrapali’s trinkets.

The company made jewellery an everyday object. It’s jewellery everyone can afford to wear, and afford to change daily. “Our earrings start for as little as Rs 2,000. Plus, our tribal silver jewellery never goes out of style,” Akanksha says.

Opening in Selfridges (almost 20 years back) changed the game for Amrapali. The world began to take it seriously. An agent in LA put some jewellery on Angelina Jolie, Beyonce and the Hollywood film ‘Troy’. President Clinton, King Charles, Kate Middleton, everyone began shopping here. Amrapali moved to Harrods for seven years, Bond Street, Netaporter.com, a store in Dubai and another in Doha.

The family opened the Amrapali Museum five years ago too. “When the founders would visit pawn shops as young men, and pick out beautiful things of high craftsmanship, they didn’t resell them. They just went on collecting,” Akanksha says. “We now have 4,000 items, of which 800 are displayed over two stories of the Museum. We need to expand the space for sure,” Tarang says.

The days of shooting pictures on their own Blackberrys and uploading them on Facebook led to a successful ecommerce launch. But Akanksha is clear she sees Tribe becoming the Zara of jewellery. “I want to introduce clothing and homeware too, make it a lifestyle brand,” she says. “Tribe is important to us as it brings us closer to a younger customer. She will be a future fine jewels customer too,” Tarang says.

Namrata Zakaria is a seasoned writer and editor, and a chronicler of social and cultural trends. Her first book, on late fashion designer Wendell Rodricks’ Moda Goa museum, is due to be published shortly. Zakaria is especially known for her insider’s take on fashion, luxury and social entrepreneurship in India. Her writing is appreciated for shaping opinions, busting myths, making reputations and sometimes breaking the odd career. Zakaria is also involved in putting together philanthropic efforts in the field of economic and environmental sustainability.

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